Most visitors see a brief glimpse of Maui’s upcountry as they’re racing down the mountain after sunrise at Haleakala to get back to the beach but I think it deserves a bit more of your vacation time ; )

I was lucky enough to call the Maui upcountry home for a little over a year, and to me it’s the real Maui. Stretching to include the cowboy country of Makawao, the farmland of Kula, the eucalyptus forests of Ulupalakua, and the slopes of Haleakala, in a lot of places, if you couldn’t look out and see the ocean, you’d swear you were in the high meadows of Colorado or the Texas hill country.With its sweeping ocean vistas, rugged green hills, purple jacaranda trees, mom and pop shops and restaurants, and many farm tours, it’s definitely a place that you’re going to want to spend some time visiting.

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Getting Upcountry

For a bit of adventure and a look at a more rugged Maui, skip the Haleakala Highway and take the back roads instead. Drive past the sugar mill, along bumpy dirt roads lined with monkeypod trees, and wind up the mountain past small farms and sprawling estates which offer some of the best views of the giant cacti that inhabit much of the upcountry before connecting with the Haleakala Highway in Kula.

For a reference point: start at the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum on Hansen Road. Take a right on Pulehu Road which will turn into Holopuni Road. You’ll eventually come to Haleakala Highway (37) and you can take a right onto the highway to continue upcountry to Kula.

My Favorite Things to Do Upcountry Maui

Tour a Pineapple Farm

If there’s one thing you think of when you think of Hawaii…it just might be pineapple.

And the Maui Pineapple Tour is probably my top “off the beaten path” thing to do on Maui.

The 1.5 hour tour is offered multiple times a day and takes you into the heart of one of the last remaining pineapple plantations in Hawaii. You’ll head into the fields where you’ll see sweeping views of the island, see how pineapple is picked, plant your own pineapple, and even get to sample sweet Maui Gold pineapple straight out of the dirt.

The tour also includes a peak into the packing facility and everyone goes home with their own Maui Gold pineapple!

I’ve done a lot of tours and excursions in Hawaii, and this is definitely one of my top picks.

Read my full review of the tour here.

And you can book the Maui Pineapple Tour here.

Maui Wine

Not to be missed! A trip Upcountry isn’t complete without going out to Ulupalakua to visit Maui Wine.

The drive from Keokea to Ulupalakua has great views of Wailea and Makena down below and is a real highlight of the upcountry area.

This place is a real example of Hawaiian hospitality. Located on a beautiful tree filled estate, the winery’s property is filled with historic buildings and beautifully landscaped grounds.

Maui Wine is famous for their pineapple wines but they have a growing collection of estate wines (look for the vineyard on the right side of the road on the way to the winery) that are gaining popularity.

The King’s Cottage Tasting Room is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11AM to 5 PM and reservations can be made 90 days in advance here.

Read my full review of visiting Maui Wine here.

Ulupalakua Ranch Store

While you’re out at the winery, you’re definitely going to want to stop in at the Ulupalakua Ranch Store across the street. Not only do they have great souvenirs that represent this part of the island, but it’s a great place to get lunch.

The grill on the porch is open from 11AM to 4PM and they serve up local grass fed burgers (beef, elk, venison, lamb) straight from the ranch. They also have fresh made sides and fixin’s and the perfect place for a little picnic.

Haleakala National Park

As a self proclaimed “National Park Geek,” I will go out of my way to visit a National Park, but even if you’re not a National Park bucket lister, you NEED to visit the summit of Haleakala National Park.

The most popular times to visit Haleakala are for sunrise or sunset, but it’s beautiful all day long!

You can see a lot just from the main overlooks or plan to set aside a few hours to do a little hiking (but remember the altitude is 10K feet so any hiking you do DOWN into the crater will feel like a lot more coming back UP).

Here is everything you need to know about visiting Haleakala National Park (especially at sunrise because you’ll need reservations).

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Ali’i Kula Lavender Farm

This is another one of my favorite spots on Maui. I used to live right by this farm!

The grounds here are exquisite and you’ll get some of the very best views of Maui. They also have a cute gift shop and café that sells a lot of lavender themed items.

The lavender farm does cost a small admission ($3/person) but it’s well worth it. The current hours are also limited from Friday-Monday, 10AM-4PM. You can easily spend a couple of hours strolling through all of the different gardens.

More about visiting the lavender farm here.

O’o Farms

This is at the top of my “must do” list next time I’m on Maui. O’o Farms provides produce for a lot of the restaurants on the island and they do farm to table breakfast and lunch tours that look SO COOL.

Now it’s not cheap (breakfast tours are $135/adult and lunch tours are $150/adult), but it’s a whole EXPERIENCE.

Both options (brunch and lunch tours) are offered Monday through Friday. Brunch tours start at 8:30AM (and would be perfect after doing sunrise at Haleakala) and lunch tours start at 10:30AM.

Find out more info here.

Drive Up Thompson Road in Keokea

I’ll let you in on a little secret…this is one of the best scenic (and largely unknown) drives on Maui.

In Keokea just across from Grandma’s (an absolute MUST for breakfast or at least baked goods), turn up the mountain on Thompson Road and drive (or walk if you’re up for it). Sometimes you’ll see people riding their horses here.

It’s rumored that this is where Oprah lives (confirmed when secret service patrols Keokea when Michelle Obama is visiting) but this drive will make you feel like you’re more likely in Ireland than Maui.

Directions: Right across the road from Grandma’s in Keokea, take the right fork in the road. You can drive to the end and turn around (it dead ends into some private drives), but a lot of people park their cars and walk.

Surfing Goat Dairy Farm

Goats? On Maui?? SHUT UP. That’s for you Princess Diaries fans ; )

But really…stop by the Surfing Goat Dairy Farm to see the goats and sample their cheese and chocolates.

It’s a cute place, but there’s honestly not much to see unless you do one of the tours. They offer a casual 30 minute tour several times a day ($21/adult and $15/child), but if you’re really into this then you’ll want to do the evening chore and milking tour (starts at 3:30 PM and it’s $28/adult and $25/child) which gives you a lot more one on one time with the goats. You’ll get the chance to feed AND milk the goats.

You can book tours here.

If you’re in the area and you’re a chocolate lover, consider stopping by and picking up some of these unique treats but don’t plan to spend a ton of time unless you’re doing a tour.

Shopping in Makawao

Makawao is paniolo (cowboy) country and the town looks straight out of the Wild West. You can easily spend an entire afternoon here.

Park the car and explore the shops, boutiques, and art galleries that have revived Makawao from its days as a cattle town. While there’s quite a bit of parking on the street, there’s also a free lot behind the buildings at the northeast intersection of Baldwin & Makawao Avenue. Continue east on Makawao avenue and take the first left (Brewer road) and then turn left into the lot. It’s a bit hidden if you don’t know it’s there but once you park, there’s a staircase that takes you right up towards town (plus that’s where the public restrooms are).

Some of my favorite boutiques are Driftwood, Pink by Nature, Homme by Nature, and the Mercantile, but you HAVE to check out Haku Maui. You’ll see her sign on the mainstreet, but it’s hidden back a bit and it is the CUTEST lei shop. There’s a few things to purchase, but if your trip coincides with one of her lei po’o workshops, then booking a spot is a must!

Ocean Vodka Distillery

Next door to the Surfing Goat Dairy Farm is the Ocean Vodka Distillery, which offers hourly tours (for a small fee) of the distillery. They also have a gift shop that sells chocolates from the Surfing Goat that are made with Ocean Vodka.

If you’re into touring breweries or distilleries this is going to be a priority for you. They do tastings from 11AM to 5PM every day (walk-ins are welcome but reservations are recommended) plus there’s a cafe on site that has live music every day from 4 PM to 7PM.

And the views here are phenomenal!

Kula Country Farms

In upper Kula, Kula Country Farms is a pretty big draw with locals and visitors. There’s a pumpkin patch in the fall and a u-pick strawberry patch in the spring. This place gets super crowded on weekends as locals make the pilgrimage from all over the island to pick a pumpkin and go through the corn maze. There’s also a little play area for kids and a farm stand that sells fresh produce and local goods (year round). This place has great views of the ocean and West Maui Mountains.

Maui Goat Yoga

More goats! Goat yoga (exactly what it sounds like…doing yoga with baby goats) is an increasingly popular trend and Maui is just the place to try it out! Morning classes with baby goats are offered several mornings a week, but the most popular classes are the sunset classes with baby goats AND live music. I kid you not. Hahahaha. Did you catch that pun? Goat yoga is very popular so reservations are required in advance.

You can book a class here. They’re usually offered several days a week at 9:30AM and during the summer months (April through September) they offer an extra sunset class.

Go for a Drive

Depending on where you’re coming from, try the drive over Kekaulike from the Haleakala Highway and down Olinda road into Makawao. This drive has it all, from rolling hills to eucalyptus forests to deep gorges.

Upcountry FAQs

Here are a few questions I often get asked about visiting Maui’s upcountry:

Can I visit upcountry the same day I do the Road to Hana or Haleakala?

If you’re doing the full Road to Hana loop (clockwise), you’ll finish up your day driving through Ulupalakua and Kula as you head back down towards Kahului/Paia. But if you’re doing the Road to Hana in one day, it’s probably going to be almost dark by the time you reach the upcountry so there won’t be much time left to explore.

But, it’s definitely possible to do Haleakala National Park and upcountry Maui on the same day (especially if you’re just going up to Haleakala mostly for sunrise or sunset).

What should I wear?

Higher elevations can mean the upcountry can be a little chillier than the coastal areas, especially in the mornings and evenings.

If you’re planning to spend the day up here, I would definitely recommend layers.

And if you’re going all the way to the summit of Haleakala, be prepared for COLD temperatures.

Where Should I Eat in the Area?

Okay, not to be dramatic or anything, but some of my all time favorite places to eat on Maui are on this part of the island. These are spots I frequented when I lived on Maui and always make a point to hit up when I visit (plus some new places that are on my list for next time):

Kula Bistro: I went here a LOT when I lived on Maui. Seriously, everything on the menu (and in the dessert case) is good here plus it’s BYOB and you can buy wine at the Morihara Store across the street.

La Provence: I don’t hear this place mentioned very often, but the best eclairs I’ve ever had are from here.

Grandma’s: This is my favorite breakfast spot on Maui and it’s perfect for warming up after sunrise at Haleakala. Their kalua pork eggs benedict is divine as is EVERYTHING in the bakery case.